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Nitrite (NO2) is produced in the aquarium by the biological filter. Beneficial bacteria in the biological filter convert ammonia into nitrite. The biological filter then converts nitrite into nitrate (NO3-). Nitrite in the aquarium is toxic; it will prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration, and high levels will quickly lead to fish death. Even trace amounts of nitrite stress fish, suppressing their immune system and increasing the likelihood of disease. Aquarium water should be tested for nitrite every other day when the aquarium if first set up, and once a week after the biological filter has been established (in about 4 - 6 weeks).

Nitrate (NO3-) is produced in the aquarium by the biological filter. Beneficial bacteria in the biological filter convert toxic ammonia and nitrite into nitrate. A high nitrate level indicates a buildup of fish waste and organic compounds, resulting in poor water and contributing to the likelihood of fish disease. Maintaining a low nitrate level improves the health of fish and invertebrates. Excessive nitrate also provides a nitrogen source that can stimulate algal blooms. Aquarium water should be tested for nitrate once a week to make sure the nitrate does not reach an undersirable level.

pH - The level pf PH refers to the hydrogen ions (H+) in water, on a scale ranging from 0 to 14, A pH of 0 is the most acidic, while pH 14 is the most alkaline. Water with a pH of 7.0 is neither acidic nor alkaline. A pH of 7.0 is considered "neutral." Marine fish and most African cichlids, depending on their natural habitat, live in a pH range of 8.0 to 8.2.

Aquarium Fish and pH - To keep marine fish, invertebrates and African cichlids healthy and colorful, it is necessary to maintain a stable pH in the proper range. Marine fish, invertebrates and African cichlids require a pH of 8.2 Excessively acidic or alkaline pH in the aquarium as well as pH fluctuations can cause stress to aquarium inhabitants A stressful environment leads to lower resistance to disease, frequent dsease outbreaks, poor fish color and appetite.

The pH level fluctuates both in the aquarium and in the tap water used to fill the aquarium, and to test the water added to your aquarium.

Adjusting pH in saltwater or freshwater aquariums can be difficult and fustrating with conventional pH adjusting products, The most common problem the hobbyist faces is that after the pH is adjusted it "rebounds" to the original level within 24 hours.

Ammonia (NH3) Tropical fish continually release ammonia (NH3) directly into the aquarium through their gills, urine, and solid waste. Uneaten food and other decaying organic matter also add ammonia to the water. A natural mechanism exists that controls ammonia in the aquarium - the biological filter. It is made up of nitrifying bacteria, which live in the gravel bed. However, as with any natural process, imbalances can occur. Testing for the presence of toxic ammonia is essential, so that once detected, steps can be taken to remove it. Otherwise, ammonia in the aquarium will damage gill membranes, and prevent fish from carrying on normal respiration. High levels of ammonia quickly lead to fish death. Even trace amounts stress fish, suppressing their immune system and thereby increasing the likelihood of disease outbreaks and subsequent fish loss.